I have struggled with this same question, BSDimwit, and I have found that the best WYSIWYG editor is Claris Home Page.
Unfortunately, it only runs in Classic.
It is the best "freeware" option I've seen (I say that in quotes because it is now unsupported and you cannot buy any more copies, but the trial is fully functional), and nothing on OS X can come close to its functionality at its price.
Hopefully someone will make a better WYSIWYG HTML editor soon for Mac OS X, but I'm not holding my breath.