Wild42
Registered User

I'm not too sure how "SUV" somehow relates to a "military car" And - even the Audi Q7 is a pretty fair example that doesn't need to be nervously steered through a slow corner http://www.ooyyo.net/detail/c=CD5A2F7114D2854F111BFA6FBA75355BE1A01D6617F3844110/9094895030877438774.html/ I can't really speak for Satcomer - but I'm expecting that Satcomer was really talking about the _driver_, and not so much the type of vehicle. I don't know who said:

I often see that installing the combined updater does fix strange oddities that show up in the system from time to time. And, reinstalling that updater performs significant maintenance to your system, which you had not tried up to now. I don't expect you will see that same problem again (assuming it was a minor glitch in your system) Yours was an unusual problem, so the update should take care of that, perhaps permanently. I don't expect you will need to run the updater once a week - and I wouldn't expect you to run the updater again, unless you need to. Of course, wait a week (or a...

Ready for more? Download and install the 10.8.3 combined updater. http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1640

For your iBook G4, I would suggest that you look at a book that shows information up to OS X 10.5 (Leopard) Keep in mind that model will be AT LEAST 8 years old, is very challenging to repair, and is dramatically different hardware, compared to that on more current models. The OS X software, however, will look and work the same on any Mac of that vintage, depending on the OS X version in use. Keep in mind that the iBook will limit you somewhat with how much RAM memory can be used, as there's only one memory slot.

@Cheryl That Macupdate link attempts connecting to an ftp server, probably at Castlewood (which is long gone), and eventually times out. I found another couple of software download sites, which also try for that same ftp link. I've not had any luck discovering working links to download the Orb tools installer. I think your hint about trying a SCSI to FW adapter in 10.4 for retrieving files may work, but I certainly don't have an Orb drive. Some older threads describe removing certain adaptec drivers, and restarting with the Orb drive attached. Could be that 10.4 does not need that mod...

Yes, there is a solution. One solution is a .olm to .pst convertor. This thread has a couple of different ones. http://macosx.com/forums/mac-os-x-system-mac-software/322201-switch-back-windows-platform.html#post1527338 (It still makes me wonder why Microsoft makes it so challenging to go from Outlook on one platform to Outlook on another. Seems to me Microsoft should provide tools for that. Another Microsoft support thread, with some other possible hints: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/mac/forum/macoffice2011-macoutlook/convert-olm-files-to-pst/7f5e4fe5-7a91-41de-8240-a46a0b214cbe

If you select a file, then click somewhere outside of that window, the file remains selected, but is just not in focus. If you click on that already-selected file, the system may still hold that first click, and another click registers as a second click, even though it's several seconds later. (Not saying that's correct behavior, but might explain what's happening) Trackpad? Mouse? If trackpad, is that the built-in one on a MacBook, or a wireless Magic trackpad? Go into your System preferences, then Mouse, or Trackpad prefs. Make sure that "double-click speed" is NOT at either extreme. ...

Which HP 4210 do you have? There's a C4210, and an F4210, and maybe 2 or 3 other HP models that all have the number 4210 as part of the model number. What version of OS X do you have? Have you checked for updates to Apple's HP drivers? Is your printer USB only, or is there also an ethernet (network) connection? If USB only, does the printer finish a page when the printer is plugged directly into the USB port on your MBAir? I'm asking that to find out if it ALWAYS fails to print a full page, or only when plugged into the USB port on the TC?

Emailchemy should do this very neatly... http://download.cnet.com/Emailchemy/3000-2367_4-10129607.html?tag=bc However, I'm a little confused: If your mail is ALREADY converted to .pst format, which is NOT the format that Apple's Mail uses (.mbox), then you should be able to copy that to your Outlook 2010, which uses .pst natively. Outlook 2010 (for Windows) uses .pst format. Outlook 2011 (for Mac) uses .olm format.

The only real way to do this is through Apple ID support. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5621 You'll notice that article says you cannot change an email address for an Apple ID account that ends in @mac.com (among others) So, what you should do is change your primary account to one that is not one of those names. You also cannot merge AppleID accounts that you already have. What you CAN do is make one of your accounts the primary, and just use that one from this point.

What does Activity Monitor show? Make sure that All Processes is selected, and not just My Processes. Then, sorting by CPU use should give you some usable info.

Does that really work, when Outlook does not use mbox format? My Outlook does not produce a file named "mailstore" in the Microsoft User Data folder. Where exactly do you find the "mailstore" file? Are you using the Mailstore plugin for Outlook? http://www.mailstore.com Is there a Mac version for that?

Easiest would be to just stay with Outlook 2011 on your Mac. :D If you MUST move to Apple Mail, then you'll need some kind of software solution, as Microsoft, in their great wisdom, doesn't make it easy, even between different versions of Outlook... The solution that most users mention is Emailchemy - http://www.weirdkid.com/products/emailchemy/index.html

That's correct - when I look at the great Mactracker app, it shows that the Quicksilver does not have any Apple firmware updates. It's too new to need that update. Some G4s need the firmware, some do not. Yours is one that does not need an update to Apple's firmware. All you should need is the Sonnet firmware updater (Sonnet has that software here: http://www.sonnettech.com/support/kb/kb.php?cat=316&expand=&action=a3#a3 ) and install the upgrade processor card. Follow the instructions that come with the upgrade processor, and ignore the suggestion to update Apple's firmware.

Here's a page with several different tips: http://www.wikihow.com/Change-Your-Browser's-Default-Search-Engine#Firefox

There's several different methods that you can use to unmount (or eject) an external hard drive. These steps are the same that you can use to eject any external storage/hard drives/flash drives/optical disks, etc. 1. Drag the desktop icon for the hard drive to the trash. Don't worry, nothing gets erased, it's just one method to eject a drive. 2. Right-click the drive's icon, and choose "Eject (drive name)" from the menu that appears. 3. Select the drive icon by clicking it, and choose Eject, from the Edit menu. 4. If the drive is selected, you can use the keyboard shortcut...

Emailchemy is the tool that's most often brought up here. http://www.weirdkid.com/products/emailchemy/ It's particularly good if you have large amounts of mail to transfer (thousands of emails) There's other methods, such as transferring all mails into gmail, but can take an hour or more for EACH thousand emails - so it works, yet really slow. And, Google can be your friend for other methods to try out.... http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=import+from+Outlook+2010+to+Mac+Mail&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

There's nothing to remove, as Bing doesn't really install anything on a Mac. Bing simply has changed some of your browser default settings, such as search engine choice. Change those to what you like... In Safari/Preferences, then the General tab: change Default Search Engine to some other choice - original default would be Google. Change your home page to whatever you like. One method is to browse to a site that you like, then in Preferences, click Set to Current Page. Or, just change Homepage address to some other site - whatever you like. Change similar settings in each browser you...

You can remove the Windows partition by using your Boot Camp Assistant (in your Applications/Utilities folder) If the Windows partition was originally created by Boot Camp, then when you run the Boot Camp Assistant, it should ask you if you want to delete the windows partition. That will remove that windows partition (along with anything on that partition), and restore the one large partition. IF YOU GET AN ERROR, such as "partition cannot be removed", then it's likely the partition was NOT orignally created using Boot Camp, and you'll have to use some other method, such as removing all...

Here's what happened (although I don't know for sure): You allowed Windows to install on the wrong partition, replacing the OS X software (and all the Mac apps, etc.) The problem, as you now know, is that you let Windows erase your hard drive. That's why it's a good plan to follow the instructions carefullywhen installing Windows, and use only Apple's Boot Camp Assistant to make the partition for installing Windows, then be sure that partition that you create in Boot Camp is the one that Windows installs to. Otherwise, you will continue to have the same problem if you try to install Windows...

Did you use the Boot Camp Assistant in OS X to install Windows 7? If that was done correctly, then you just need to boot back in the Mac OS X system. Restart while holding the Option/Alt key. That boots to the iMac "Boot manager" screen. Choose the OS X boot (probably still named Macintosh HD, unless you changed it), and press enter to boot to that system. If you did not use the Boot Camp Assistant to install Windows 7, but you REPLACED the original Mac system with Windows, then that won't work. If that's what you did when installing Windows, try booting to the original Recovery...

Outlook 2011 for Mac, uses a .olm file You'll need to use some utility or other method that will convert that .olm file to a .pst, then import the .pst into Office 2010. There's a few different methods to get there - Google it... http://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=ww#hl=en&gs_rn=12&gs_ri=psy-ab&gs_mss=export%20outlook%202011%20to%20o&cp=30&gs_id=3d&xhr=t&q=export+outlook+2011+to+outlook+2010&es_nrs=true&pf=p&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&oq=export+outlook+2011+to+outlook&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.46340616,d.dmg&fp=a8e1b13a821de47b&biw=1093&bih=668 (It amazes me that it's...

This looks like a decent article that compares the features of the D600 to the D800 http://scottkelby.com/2012/the-nikon-d800-vs-the-d600-which-one-is-the-right-one-for-you/

There's a good list of various solutions here: http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=import+from+Outlook+for+Mac+to+Mac+Mail&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

When I expect good quality from CD-Rs - I have used only two brands in the last 6 or 8 years. Verbatim - and Taiyo Yuden. I still get them from here: http://www.supermediastore.com/category/u/blank-recordable-cd-r-rw-disc-discs-media I don't use CD-Rs so much now. Used to be a few hundred a year, and a pack of 100 might yield a small number of "coasters", maybe 2 or 3. With the numbers that I burned, a few is not a big problem. Verbatim, and Taiyo Yuden always (and continue to) have the smallest number of failed burns - but that happens for more reasons than just bad media. Those two...

I was offering the fusion drive as an option, and an option where you should find out more, if it interests you. I don't consider setting up a fusion drive a "novice" kind of task - but, I think it leaves you with a "drive" where you don't have to think too much about where you place your files and apps. A 2-drive setup, like you have now, if it is not well thought out, easily will lead to very confusing situations for how to use both drives efficiently. Yours may be OK, but I have seen some that very quickly were real struggles to "untangle" Finally, the computer doesn't much care where...

One advantage with swapping the SSD into the hard drive slot, and the hard drive in the optical slot: Some MacBook Pros have a higher speed bus in the hard drive connection, and you would then get measurable speed increase by having the SSD in the hard drive slot. I suggest that the System and its files don't really take a huge amount of space - maybe 5 or 6 GB. A booting system as a backup (or alternate boot) is not really a bad thing to keep around. It might be better that you know you have only one set of your apps/documents/music/movies, etc, between the SSD and the hard drive. Your...

Is the light software controllable? Does it come with its own app for that? I've not ever seen one like that, but maybe it's possible. Without an app to control it, then automator control seems unlikely. A USB device like a light would just get 5V power from the USB bus. I expect there's no way to software control the USB power without shutting off the USB bus entirely. The light simply comes on when you plug it in, and off when you remove it.

I don't really have experience with repairing iPhones. That's why my first thought was to suggest taking your phone to a shop that can quickly tell you what you want to know. You can certainly find out how much a repair will cost. If you don't like the cost, check with another shop. Compare with Amazon prices, if you like.

IMHO, Format/reinstall is a last resort, not one of the first things to try. I only mentioned the Activity Monitor, because that may give you a clue that some app or service is taking over your system, and then returning here with the names of two or three apps/services. For example, it's quite common for the "mdworker" process, or another part of the Spotlight service to begin a runaway, and apparently never stop processing files for the search database. A simple reset of the spotlight service can fix that, but one has to look around a little for the easy fix - much simpler than a "nuke...