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Jeff, Please check the man page before you say that 'ls' is not a standard ftp command http://unixhelp.ed.ac.uk/CGI/man-cgi?ftp

After you login using your username and password, type 'passive' to turn off passive ftp and then type 'epsv' which turns off extended passive ftp. Then try to list the directories and files by using 'ls' and that should work.