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More than likely a weak processor...Or, occasionally vibrations from normal operation can unseat the processors from the base on the logic board. Try reseating the processors.

The drive is not mounting. That's why it's not showing up through target disk mode on the working Mac. My professional opinion is that the drive needs to be removed from the broken Mac (to keep it cool) and some really good third party software like DiskWarrior and Data Rescue 3 will most likely...

May also want to try a PRAM reset.

Connect the broken Mac via firewire to another Mac. Power on the broken Mac while holding down the "T" key until you see a floating firewire symbol on the screen of the broken Mac. Then if the drive is not to bad off, you should see the volume from the broken Mac appear on the desktop of the...

It may just be the access door part of the enclosure stopping it from ejecting. You should just be able to push and hold the access door down to see if that allows the tray on the optical drive to come out.

Maybe freed up something that might have snuck underneath the keycap making it stick. Glad it worked out.

They are not any more difficult than any other Apple laptop key caps I've pried off of our old keyboards to replace for customers machines. As usual, just be careful with the underlying plastic holder pieces. Just takes patience and caution. Having a good, sharp spudger helps also.

You did do a backup, right? Why did you try to reformat the drive to attempt to reinstall if you were concerned with the data?

No, Apple doesn't even release that kind of stuff to Authorized Service providers. Best way to start at finding a short is remove any screws holding the board to the bottom case, but don't remove the heatsink. Then play around with it and see what happens.

A battery isn't going to cause it to reboot with movement. Did you try reseating the RAM? Other than that it, on machines I've looked at with those symptoms it usually indicates a short.

But at the same time you have a bad hard drive that does not mount. If you are able to re-image from the failing drive to the new drive, you will most likely still have a drive that does not mount. Then DW will once again be your best bet of getting the drive to mount and getting access to the data.

Try disabling the sudden motion sensor in terminal. Don't have the instructions on how to do it readily available at the moment, but google should bring it up for you. Also if you happen to have a usb sata dock you could boot the install dvd and check each drive on the machine to at least see...

I don't know why you would want something besides DiskWarrior as that is a very logical next step. Even if you do get a clone and restore the image to a brand new drive it will still not mount. So even in this case you will need a very powerful directory structure tool like DiskWarrior to get...

It should have worked with the white macbook so I would assume the white macbook has a bad optical drive on top of whatever other problems it has. The iMac is way too new for that version of DW.

Data Rescue 3 is a great app. Have used it multiple times for many clients. The reason the names can't be recovered is because when you delete things, the entries or 'pointers' in the directory structure get erased but the data remains and the blocks the data reside on are reported as unused...

If the drive was originally GUID you can repartition without loss of data. However your drive was APM so it erased the the directory and quite possibly overwrote areas with data when rewriting the partition map to GUID. I've used Data Rescue 3 on many clients machines and have had good results...

Just the most common sense question that nobody has asked yet. Just so we don't throw the baby out with the bathwater, have you tried the computer on other wireless networks besides your own?

System preferences/security. Under general tab (1st tab) uncheck "require password after sleep or screensaver begins".

How do you know if it was the drive failing in the first place? Do you have any known good RAM to test with?

I think you should rule out that its not just a faulty AC adapter before you try to attempt replacing a magsafe board. By the way, changing the magsafe board involves removing the logic board for any unibody Apple laptop.